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14th March – International Day of Action for Rivers A Bungalow for Brahmaputra

S. BALAKRISHNAN

How can the mighty Brahmaputra River be contained within a Bungalow! But we have legends of River Ganges being held within the matted hair of Lord Shiva and River Cauvery contained in the ‘kamandal’ (water jug) of Saint Agasthiyar. But here in this case, it is actually a Bungalow dedicated to River Brahmaputra that transcends international borders of Tibet, India and Bangladesh.

A destination not to be missed in the Assam capital of Guwahati is the Mahabahu Brahmaputra River Heritage Center, dedicated to Brahmaputra. Perched atop a hillock on the southern bank of the river is the 170-year-old Deputy Commissioner’s Bungalow of the British colonial era when this was the centre of power. The dilapidated bungalow has now been painstakingly restored and transformed into a Heritage Bungalow to narrate the flow of River Brahmaputra and that of the life of people woven around the River. The Guwahati Metropolitan Development Authority has transformed the entire hillock  along with the bungalow on the top and the surrounding grounds into the Mahabahu Brahmaputra River Heritage Centre, dedicated to the spirit and legacy of the majestic River Brahmaputra.

            It is a single storied traditional bungalow built of wood. On the ground floor, the entry lobby holds art exhibitions.  As one enters the Central Hall with a theme of ‘Life along the River’, the installation on the ceiling attracts the attention; it is a collection of traditional fishing equipment that hang from the roof. The panels on the walls have pictorial and narrative representation of the theme. River Brahmaputra’s course in India, with elements of significance along its path, is depicted. Placed in one corner of the Central Hall is a fully functional weaving loom and traditional handloom patterns. Another corner is dedicated to ‘Life in Majuli’, world’s biggest riverine island, some 300 kms east of Guwahati. The plush drawing room with the fire place captivates the visitors. The attic (first floor) has a vast section dedicated to the musical heritage along Brahmaputra’s pathway. The Centre also has a think-tank for river heritage settlements. The greenery of the hillock attracts various species of birds besides hosting the biggest bat colony of Guwahati.

            The heritage campus has an open air amphitheatre, riverside garden, art installations, activity spaces and viewing decks overlooking the river; I had a mesmerising sunset view from here. The complex is open on all days from 10 in the morning. Visitors above the age of ten are charged 100 rupees. The campus is a ‘pedestrian only’ campus where no vehicles ply. The only drawback is the high-ended Starbucks café, the only eatery there which is ill affordable. I just swallowed a bottle of water that I carried.

            The Mahabahu Brahmaputra River Heritage Centre not only showcases the restored British era bungalow but also the heritage of the majestic Brahmaputra River and life revolving around it.

krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in / 9840917608

Sikkim at a Glance

  • Area: 7096 Sq Kms
  • Capital: Gangtok
  • Altitude: 5,840 ft
  • Population: 6.10 Lakhs
  • Topography: Hilly terrain elevation from 600 to over 28,509 ft above sea level
  • Climate:
  • Summer: Min- 13°C - Max 21°C
  • Winter: Min- 0.48°C - Max 13°C
  • Rainfall: 325 cms per annum
  • Language Spoken: Nepali, Bhutia, Lepcha, Tibetan, English, Hindi