The ‘Satras’ - Vaishnavite Monasteries of Assam

S. BALAKRISHNAN

The Satras (Vaishnavite Hermitages/Monasteries) are unique to the riverine Majuli Island of Assam. They are the abode of Assamese Vaishnavite culture with a very rich heritage that is not only preserved but also practiced even to this day. In a way the secluded location of the island, away from the so-called civilized society, could have helped the celibate inmates of the Satras to focus not only on divine duties but also on cultural aspects – music, dance, drama, prose, poetry & plays.
The historic meeting of two pioneers of neo Vaishnavism – Saint Sankaradeva and Saint Mahadeva of Assam – in the 15th century at Beloguri in West Majuli was the cornerstone for revival of Vaishnavism. The establishment of Satras followed and soon Majuli emerged as the cradle of Vaishnavite culture in Assam and, for that matter, in North-East India as well.  
Our tour itinerary in Majuli included visit to a few Satras and we were fortunate that Shri Nitul Dutta, a monk from Auni-ati Satra was our guide. But first thing first, right? Before a tour of the Satras he offered us tasty breakfast – poha/chura with ghur, dahi/milk and Tea & peda. As he led us around the Satra, he said that earlier there were 65 Satras in Majuli Island but now there are only 22. The others had to be shifted to safer places due to the devastation of flood and erosion by the mighty Brahmaputra River that, in the first place, created the Majuli Island. One of the earliest Satras, the Auni-ati Satra was established in 1650. Its present strength is 450 Shishyas, all bachelors/celibates and pure vegetarians; no, not even fish is taken but milk, dohi, tea, are not prohibited. In fact, some monks even rear cows at the backyard of their simple dwelling. They could even live with their family and the inmates could go to their family during vacations. Parents can also visit and mobile is permitted.  The routine is morning bhajan, naam krtan along with Khol (drum), music, dance & drama practice. The Auni-ati has four wings and each wing has a drama hall. They also attend school, watch TV, own cycle, etc. Throughout the year, they bathe only in cold water. Hand pumps are installed to provide fresh, warm underground water. No footwear is allowed inside the Satra. Shri Nitul Dutta maintains 5-6 cows. I noticed dried Urad plant stored as straw fodder for rainy days. He took such care for the cows that the shed had mosquito net!  Though he took us on a tour of the cow shed, his kitchen was prohibited for visitors! He had a wooden granary for rice, with bamboo steps. His backyard invariably had a handpump besides a toilet. The Satra has a main storeroom to receive and store all donations in kind for distribution when needed. Auni-ati is a rich Satra with properties in different places. The Satra’s museum has gold/silver vessels & puja items, ivory inlaid chair, ivory walking stick, chess set, old drama dress sets, sword and other artifacts.  The satras generally have a large prayer hall in front of a shrine, surrounded by dormitories and bathing tanks for monks. Auni-ati Satra’s shrine houses Krishna/Bansi Govinda in silver mandap, flanked by Vasudeva. Tulsi wood was procured from the Himalayas for this shrine, Shri Dutta explained.
As each Satra specializes in some form of art & culture,  Auni-ati is famous for Paalnaam & Apsara dances, Kamalabari for building boats and performing arts, Bebgena-ati for performing arts; here is preserved the royal gold umbrella and gilded robe of an Ahom King. Dakhnipat Satra is known for Rasleela while Samaguri is for ‘Mukut’ (mask) making. We had the opportunity to watch mask making. The complicated step by step process goes like this – first the bamboo frame, then applying a layer of fine cloth upon which is laid a fine layer of wet clay, then cow dung whence shape is also given; finally, again a cloth lining & then colouring. The masks are light weight to aid agile movement of dancers; the Narasimha mask (bust size) weighs only 15 kg. The masks are even exported. The troupe of monks was getting ready to leave for a performance in Sibsagar town. The only deviation from the tradition is that nowadays the mouth of mask is kept open while earlier it was covered.
The unique and exotic blend of devotion with dance & music has made the Satras a living tradition. The Satras are also rich treasure houses of arts & crafts.   
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