Dzongu

SAM RAO

My ode to the mighty Himalayas

Life has always been a platform of surprises for me. Some good, some bad but, mostly great. Filmmaking runs in me. You can call it a passion, or fascination, or whatever. But one thing is clear that storytelling is something that I enjoy the most. Down the years I have managed to gather some wonderful memories and experiences as an assistant director in Hindi cinema in Mumbai.

Having been worked with stalwarts like Baba Azmi, Javed Akhtar, Shabana Azmi, Naseeruddin Shah to name a few and constantly challenging myself to push the boundaries forward. It so happened when I stumble upon this current subject I was completely blown out of my mind. Because the stories of Sonam Wangchuk Lepcha and his achievements along with his teammates is nothing short of an extraordinary Himalayan tale.

One of the experiences were my days in Dzongu. As I stepped into the lush valleys of Dzongu, North Sikkim, I was immediately awestruck by the beauty it holds. This remote region, home to a rich segment of biodiversity, had captured my heart. My journey to Dzongu was not just a professional endeavour but a personal quest fuelled by my passion for nature and storytelling. Alongside my assistant Rahul Barman, I ventured to this exotic landscape to film segments for our documentary, a project that had already made it to the top 25 of the Public Service Broadcasting Trust (PSBT) submissions. Being among the top 25 was a big thing, and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for this opportunity.

The support I received from Sonam and his team at the Thamblyok - Butterfly Society of North Sikkim was delightful. Dilip Dhakal Sharma, Mingdup Lepcha, Dawa Lepcha, Lakpa Lepcha, Lhendup Lepcha and Sonam Wangchuk Lepcha Jr. welcomed us with open arms, their dedication and knowledge about the region enhancing our filming experience. With their guidance, we captured stunning footage that would form the backbone of our documentary.

Initially, the weather was kind to us, allowing for some breathtaking shots. However, by the third day, nature unleashed its fury. Landslides and flooding began to affect parts of North Sikkim, and the very bridge that connected us to the rest of Sikkim was destroyed by the raging river. It was surreal, almost poetic, to be filming a documentary about climate change and then experiencing its brutal impacts firsthand.

Despite these challenges, Sonam and his team took care of us with an incredible level of hospitality. They provided shelter and comfort in their own home, making sure we were safe and well-fed despite the lack of electricity, network, or internet. Their will and resourcefulness were inspiring, and they became more than just collaborators; they were our lifeline in those critical days.

When the weather finally calmed enough to allow a narrow path to be cleared, Sonam’s sister, Nima, accompanied us on a gruelling three-hour trek to reach a point where transportation to Gangtok was possible. The trek was exhaustive, but the sense of camaraderie and support from Sonam’s family made it bearable.

Reflecting on this experience, I am deeply grateful to the Thamblyok Butterfly Society of North Sikkim for their unparallel support and hospitality. They are the heart and soul of our project, and this documentary would not have been possible without them. I also extend my heartfelt thanks to the Public Service Broadcasting Trust (PSBT) for believing in our proposal and selecting it among the top 25. This recognition is a testament to the importance of our work and motivates us to push forward, despite the challenges.

The people of Dzongu left an indelible mark on us with their warmth. I encourage everyone to visit this incredible place, not just for its natural beauty but to experience the profound sense of community and dedication to conservation.

Returning to Gangtok, I couldn't help but reflect on the journey. We were tired, our bodies aching from the trek, but our spirits were refreshed. We had captured footage that spoke volumes, but more importantly, we had formed bonds and collected experiences that would shape the narrative in profound ways. The team in North Sikkim had become more than just participants in our documentary; they were now our friends and collaborators. This journey has solidified my belief in the power of storytelling and the importance of capturing the beauty of both nature and humanity. And, last but not the least, I would like to thank my father for the support that he has given always me.