The story behind Kwai: tympew, shun, and duma (betel nut, betel leaf, lime and tobacco)

SIDDHARTHA PRADHAN

In the misty hills of Northeast India, a poignant story of friendship gave rise to one of the region’s most enduring traditions—the offering of betel nut. This simple combination of betel leaf, areca nut, and lime transcends its humble components, embodying hospitality, respect, and cultural unity

The tale tells of two childhood friends—one rich, one poor—whose bond endured despite life’s changes. The poor man, faced taunts from his neighbours about his wealthy friend. To prove their friendship, he invited the rich man to his home but, unable to provide a proper meal and shamed by the villagers’ indifference, the poor couple tragically took their own lives. A prowling thief, fearing blame for their deaths, followed suit.

(The clumps of yellow areca nuts)

Devastated, the rich man sought a way to honour these deaths. Thus, offering kwai became a symbol of friendship and equality, a gesture that transcended wealth or status. Today, it remains deeply ingrained in the North East India, and beyond.

Kwai Across the North East:

The practice of offering betel nut, paired with betel leaf, varies across the northeastern states:

• In Darjeeling and Sikkim, it is known as paan supari
• In Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland, it is tamul
• For the Manipuris, it is kua, while the Mizos call it kuhva, and in Tripura it's called kuwai
• Among the Garos , it is gue, and for the Khasis and Jaintias of Meghalaya, it is kwai

Cultivation:

India, the world’s largest producer of areca nut (betel nuts are not actually nuts but are instead classified as a fruit, specifically a berry) grows it primarily in South India, the northeastern states, and the Andaman & Nicobar Islands. Areca nuts finds its traditional use not only in Ayurvedic medicine but also enjoys them as paan- a traditional digestive. It is estimated that around 10-15% of the Indian population uses betel nut in some form, with betel nut chewing being particularly widespread and popular in cultural contexts.

Meghalaya, the fifth-largest producer, exemplifies the nut’s integration into local geography and culture. The region’s foothills nearby Dawki (river ride on the crystal clear waters, near the Indo-Bangladesh border of Tamabil) is considered as the best quality of betel nut in Meghalaya provide ideal conditions for its cultivation: a humid, wet climate with steep hills that offer constant drainage and cloud cover with cooling winds and abundant water, fostering lush growth.

(Jute gunny bags and tall bamboo caskets tower over my Khasi friend Desmond. These are used to ferment the nuts in running freshwater in dug up ponds)

A unique aspect of Meghalaya’s kwai culture is the fermentation process. Areca nuts are stored in flowing water pits, 10–12 feet deep, for 3–5 months, a process that enhances their flavour and serves as a natural preservation method. This process imparts a distinct, odourless yet unique taste, adding to their irresistible allure.

A Symbol of Unity and Identity

Beyond its role as a crop, the betel nut holds immense cultural significance. It is a symbol of unity, a mark of respect, and a shared cultural identity among the tribes of Northeast India.

(Traditional welcome in the border hamlet of Pyriwah, Meghalaya)

In Meghalaya, kwai is an essential part of daily life, with locals always keeping it in stock, as running out is considered a bad omen. Small pouches or steel boxes filled with kwai are commonly seen, highlighting its cultural significance. Highly valued during the cold and rainy months, kwai provides a quick boost to body temperature. Offering kwai as a greeting is a customary gesture of friendship and respect, while refusing it is often viewed as impolite. I am even led to believe that in the days of old, distances were gauged by the number of kwai that be chewed.

Chewing kwai has become a habit I’ve grown to embrace whenever I’m in Meghalaya, now with the effortless ease of a Khasi. The betel nuts, encased in a paan leaf (piper betle) and generously smeared with slaked lime from Meghalaya’s limestone-rich hills, reflect my deepening affection for this "mini-Scotland." Its serene landscapes and invigorating climate once made it a favoured destination for sanatoriums, holiday homes, churches and educational institutions cherished by the ranks of the British East India Company.

Rooted in a tale of friendship, the offering of kwai continues to bridge divides, reminding us of the deep bonds that transcend material wealth.