Aug. 26: Janmashtami

S. BALAKRISHNAN

A Madrasi’s Musings on Assam – 10

Doul Govinda Mandir, Guwahati

When you say Assam one immediately connects it with Maa Kamakya Temple, one of the 51 Shakti Pithas in our country. But Assam is also famous for various other temples of both Saivite and Vaishnavite sects; one of them is Shri Shri Doul Govinda Mandir near Guwahati. Dedicated to Lord Krishna, this Vaishnavite temple is just across Guwahati City on the northern bank of River Brahmaputra. Though recorded references about this temple date back to around two centuries ago, the idol’s lore hints to a much earlier period.

How the present idol of Lord Krishna was discovered might sound similar to the revealing of many hidden sacred idols around the country. A cow owned by a Brahmin freed herself before dawn regularly and went to the woods near the village Jekeria in Kamrup district. There it shed her milk on a grass bush. On hearing about this unusual routine, the Sadar-Amin of Nalbari, Gargaram Barooah, set out on elephant back to unravel the mystery himself. On careful digging, a flute-playing Lord Krishna idol was discovered at that spot. This idol could be the family deity of Hara Dutta and Beer Dutta Boruahs who had their haveli in that area. When they rose against the Ahom king they were defeated and slain. Before deserting their haveli they could have hidden their family idol in the garden; as years rolled by, the garden turned into a forest, hiding evidences of the past. But there is no reliable account to confirm this.

Well, whatever the origin of the deity, Sadar-Amin Gargaram Barooah brought the image in a grand procession to his village of Rajadooar /Rajaduar (King’s Gateway). On the advice of his Guru, the idol was installed at the Namghar (prayer house) of his village which already had an image of Lord Shyam Rai, another form of Lord Krishna. Both the idols were under regular worship without any problem until the festival of Holi. As Holi approached, devotees were caught in a dilemma; which idol to be given prominence and placed on the doul (a special mandap) during Holi celebrations - the original Namghar idol of Lord Shyam Rai or the new-found Shri Krishna?  

The priest prayed and wisely left the decision to the deities themselves. The next morning, the new image (of Lord Krishna) was seen standing a few inches ahead of the original idol (of Lord Shyam Rai) on the altar. Accordingly, the new image of Lord Krishna was taken out and placed on the ‘Doul’ (an outhouse temple in the courtyard of Namghar for celebration of Holi) and was also recognised as Lord ‘Doul Govinda’. After some time, the image of Lord Shyam Rai fell down from the throne of the Namghar and lost one hand. Thus the idol of Lord Shyam Rai got itself removed from the sanctum of the Mandir, leaving the temple to be ruled by Lord Krishna.

The Doul Govinda Mandir complex is situated on a strip of highland on the northern slope of Chandra Bharoti hillock in Rajaduar village. The temple complex has the main temple (Manikut), the Doul, two open halls and other structures. The premise was reconstructed in the 1970s replacing the old Namgarh, Doul, Manikut and other structures. While the open hall in front of the Doul has the traditional Assam type roof, all other structures are of concrete, including the ‘Manikut’ (sanctum sanctorum). Unlike the traditional old temples of Assam, there are no artistic carvings and sculptures here; it is just plain and simple. A spacious and shady complex, it appears to be smaller during Holi and other festivities when devotees throng in huge numbers. 

Doul Govinda Mandir opens for darshan daily at 7.30 AM and is open till sunset except for a short closure during midday for offering bhog to the deity.  Janmashtami (August-September) and Doul utsav (Holi, Feb.-March) are the most important festivals of this temple.  As I was going through the  official website of the Doul Govinda Mandir, I was surprised to come across about the ‘uri adi’ celebration in Tamil Nadu during Gokulashtami which is called the Dahi Handi in North India, whence teams of young men form human towers to reach a high-hanging pot of curd and break it.

During the five-day Doul festivities (Holi) the idol is placed at the Doul (an outhouse temple within the complex) when devotees offer the pinkish Abir or Faku powder made especially for the occasion. This is not exactly vermilion but looks like that. Religious and cultural programmes are organised both during day and night times. The nights are reserved for Bhawana, i.e., a classical form of Assamese dance-drama performance. How I wish I could be there during the next Holi! On the last day of the festivities, the Lord is taken out on a grand procession to Dehing Satra, a Vaishnavite Mutt, some 5 kms away, accompanied by bands, Holi songs and smearing of abir/faku pink powder, the trademark of Holi festival! Resting a while on being received at the Satra with reverence, the Lord is brought back to the temple. On the way, the householders welcome Lord Krishna with earthen lamps and gamocha (the traditional Assamese scarf). The Lord is then placed on the throne at the regular altar (Manikut), marking the end of Holi (Doul) festivities. 

From Guwahati City on the southern bank of Brahmaputra one can approach the Doul Govinda Temple on the northern bank either by the ropeway across the river or by a steamer; both are very enjoyable. The temple is at walking distance from these two points, though taxies/autos are also available. Rice kheer is distributed as prasad to the devotees. I was tempted to ask for another serving or better still come in the queue again but felt it was an unholy act because Prasad is a sacred dish and not taken for its taste. I decided saintly and gulped some water.  

(krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in / 9840917608 WhatsApp)