Camp at Thar Desert

S. BALAKRISHNAN
Camping at Thar Desert might sound as a crazy and ‘hot’ idea but it was a ‘cool’ experience because it was in January. Yet, as our tour operator dumped us at the sands by 4 PM and handed us over to the camel drivers, the sun was still blazing. But it was pleasant as the Thar was beginning to cool down.

This part of Thardesert is called Sam (Hope it is not after Uncle Sam). It is around 45 kms from Jaisalmer city. We were goaded on to the camels in pairs.  It was our first camel ride and we felt so awkward and uneasy riding on it that we decided never again to ride a camel. I wonder how the camel felt carrying us. The 4-km ‘joy’ ride came to an end to our great relief as we reached the sunset point, deep into the desert with lots of sand dunes. It was a wonderful sight to see waves and waves of rising sand dunes with falling slopes, deep depressions and amazing ripple design drawn by the howling wind on the sand. We were overjoyed to see in reality what we had so far seen only in duet song scenes of movieswhere the heroine and hero would be joyfully rolling/sliding down these sand dunes. How jealous I had felt! Though I was ready to copy their act, my wife neither was ready to play the role of heroine nor allowed me to take help from other lady tourists. The golden sand and the clear blue sky presented a marvelous painting.

When the sun finally disappeared in the western horizon behind an unbelievable vast stretch of nothing but sand, it was almost 6.30 PM. The excited tourists and the composed camels presented a contrasting silhouette outline. With the evening desert safari over, we were hoarded back to our jeeps. With the chilly wind blowing against us, we were driven to the camp site after a brilliant sunset view.
    We straightaway huddled into our tent accommodation at Oasis Camp, Sam. We deliberately chose this tent accommodation to the ‘hut’, to have another first-time experience. The double-bed Swisstant (that is how tent is spelt in their name board) with attached bath, running water and electricity was comfortable. How much the package cost I don’t remember now, eight years after; but whatever it was, it was worth because of the many unique and exciting experiences. After unpacking, it was time for camp fire and cultural show that showcased the rich folk dances of Rajasthan.

Now it was time for feeding your stomach with Rajasthani dinner. Happy and content, we hit the bed wearing all the winter clothing we had carried andcurled up under the blankets.We were woken up at the odd hour of 3 AM for the morning safari to view sunrise. Stealing the blankets from the ‘tant’ we sat shivering in the jeep. We were lucky again to have a wonderful clear view of sunrise from the sand dunes like the previous evening’s sunset. I was shocked to see two ‘tants’ amid the sand dunes. Must be daredevil foreigners or youngsters, I shivered at the thought of camping right in the desert. There wasn’t much crowd as in the evening. So we had the Thar to ourselves and a peaceful time. We left half-heartedly as the jeep then drove us through some desert villages but there wasn’t any activity as it was winter morning. We passed by sleepy camels, traditional huts and modern houses. By 8.30 we reached back the Oasis camp site. After breakfast – the usual puri&aalusubji – we had to pack up and leave for Jaisalmer. All good things have to come to end, no?
    Looking back, I feel, as always, unsatisfied about the short time we spent in the Thar Desert. I didn’t get to see the life of people in India’s only hot desert. Ladakh is India’s cold desert; I am afraid I will never be able to visit Ladakh at this age. But I was wise enoughto collect a bottle of the golden sand from Thar Desert as an unforgettable souvenir. I have a feel of the desert when I hold it in my palm, but it is so fine that it oozes out of my palm unlike the beach sand which is coarse. The wind has worked overtime to turn this sand so fine like gold dust! Well, if every mad tourist like me is going to steal a bottle of sand, will Thardesertvanish?!

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