MahaShivratri Special (26 Feb 2025)

S. BALAKRISHNAN

As the name itself suggests it is a Shiva Temple (‘dol’ in Assame is temple) on the southern bank of Sivasagar (sagar=ocean) tank. Sibsagar, as it was known earlier, is some 360 kms east of Guwahati. Obviously, Sivasagar District earns its name from this sacred tank.  Sivasagar was the capital of the mighty Ahom rulers of Assam for 600 years until the British occupied Assam. The Siva dol was built by Queen Ambika Devi, one of the queens of Ahom king Siva Singha (1714-44 AD). On her orders the Sivasagar tank was constructed between 1731 and 1738 with a depth of 27 feet; it is said that this sacred tank has never dried up. Also known as Borpukhuri (‘pukhuri’ in Assame is pond), it is home for migratory birds as well. She also raised three temples on the southern bank of this tank for Shiva, Vishnu and Durga in 1734; they are styled after the Ahom temple architecture with a front mandap and a tower upon the garbagraha. The vast pond and the temples form the heart of the Sivasagar Town. Though almost 500 years old, all these three temples continue to be under daily worship.

            Of these three dolsin the same complex, the Shiva dol is the largest and also the tallest. It is 104 feet (32 m) tall and is said to be the tallest temple tower in Assam. This tower above the garbagraha is built with parallel ridges and furrows that add elegance to it. The lower part of the tower is flanked by four smaller identical towers which are called the angashikaras. The tower is crowned with an eight-foot golden dome which is further topped by a metal trishul.

            The Vishnu dol’sgarbagraha is octagonal and the tower above is covered with honeycomb design and has eight angashikaras. The tower is adorned by the ‘chakra’ motif atop the kalash.The front mandapa resembles the typical Assamese chala hut. The Devi dol has vertical patterns on the tower. All these three temples have sculpture panels on the base of the tower; one that drew my attention was that of a six-faced Devi seated on a bird which I mistook for Karthik. The flower motif that is an essential part of Assam’s traditional handloom design is seen on the temple wall.

It is evident that Mahashivaratri is celebrated with fervour in the Shiva dol. A huge mela is organised on the occasion. In the Vishnu Dol, RathYatra and DolYatra are the two main annual festivals. Needless to say, Durga Puja festival is the main annual event at the Devi Dol.

One can reach Sivasagar (360 kms. east of Guwahati) by air, rail and road. Nearest Airport is Jorhat(55 kms); the nearest main Railhead is Simaluguri (16 km); and it is well connected by roadway with other parts of Assam.  

I was in a hurry to catch the train at Simaluguri on my way back to Guwahati after spending a day at a tea garden. The fear of missing the train was eating me up. So I could spend only an hour or so at the SivasagarDol complex but it was a beautiful evening at the well-maintained 500-year-old temple complex with a clear blue sky above and cool breeze blowing from the Sivasagar Tank.

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