Of Sikkim Heritage

B.P. RAI

VIEWPOINT

While the flavour of the farewell cake still lingers on, I am tempted to write down what I feel may be the re-appraisal of our own heritage treasure and what may constitute long-term steps to repair (as the case may be) and retain everything representative of all what Sikkim stands for and what Sikkim can offer in the larger vistas of heritage conservation efforts countrywide.

Before proceeding further, I want to thank and am grateful to the Hon’ble Chief Minister, Shri prem Singh Tamang Golay for giving me an opportunity to work in the Sikkim State Archives under Culture Department, GoS. This facilitated an in-depth understanding,as much as I could absorb, of the concept of conservation, both tangible and intangible. Based on my own limited understanding, I seek to dwell upon some aspect of Sikkim Heritage scenario also shedding some lights on how we can better learn or unlearn our usual methodology adopted by different Departments so far. On the hindsight, allow me to insert a definitive conditional clause that any historical inference or reference connected to a person or an event will be based on ‘my own understanding or as much as I could understand’and will be open to correction with adequate material proof.

Council House- a heritage structure

The present Office of the Sikkim State Archives was the erstwhile Council House which has witnessed intense socio-political development since the early 1950s. Commissioned during the late 1940s, some eminent engineers and architects of the yesteryears have been associated with the construction of this architectural marvel through their hard work, sincerity and professional integrity. As much as we could gathered, the wider perception is that the Swiss Architect Robert Weisee was instrumental in designing this Council House who also designed Old Sikkim House in Delhi and the present day Office of the Tsuklakhang Trust in the Palace Complex.The then State Engineer Faquir Chand Jali (in whose memory we have Jali Power House at Sangkhola) has been credited with the overall supervisory role who was ably assisted by Engineer/Builders Santabir Limboo, Mahendra Pradhan and Pahal Rai.*

Eleventh Chogyal Maharaja Tashi Namgyal held regular meeting with his Advisory Council Members in this House and took crucial decisions in the interest of his subjects.After the integration of Sikkim into the Indian mainstream, this structure served as the Assembly House during the LD Kazi-led Government from 1974-1979 and continued till late 1980s under NB Bhandari led Government before shifting to the present-day Assembly Secretariat at Namnam.

Sikkim: a treasure trove of nature and culture

Perhaps nowhere in the world do we find such an exquisite range of nature and culture co-exist and prosper than in Sikkim which is geographically very small compared to other Indian states.If we may recount here that Sikkim State hosts large number of historical ruins, ancient monasteries and other religious centres, boasts of age-old practice of nature worship and consequently many sacred sites raised and developed and revered over centuries as centres of our beliefs and faith. And these sites expand and extend from our hearth to our field and to our wilderness where we ascribe divine presence in every blade, every living elements in nature. Very much like the playwright would say, we ‘finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks, Sermons in stones and good in everything’ and therefore we are the proud progeny of our forefathers who lived harmoniously among themselves and among nature.

Where we stand today?

This is a critical question where easy answer may evade us. Not many documents are available on the authentic listings and documentation of our cultural properties spread across the State which might have once decorated our landscape and now no longer exist. The Sikkim Cultural Resource Mapping (CRM) project of 2003 (revised in 2015) is one of the initiatives commissioned by the Culture Department as a ready reference book.The revised edition has over 370 cultural properties included in the volume. They include caves, mani lakhang, chortans, Gompas, mandirs, mule tracks, waterfalls, hot springs, traditional houses, historical bungalows, natural landscapes, hills and mountains.  However, as per report,during every subsequent studies, many of the sacred sites and properties reported earlier have disappeared and are no more in existence.For example as recently as in September 2023, we found out that many of the Limboo Traditional Houses documentedearlier during the 2015 edition of CRM in Mangsari Magardzong under Soreng District were missing and no longer there in the village.The Department is presently working to revisit and update the details where additional over 100 new sacred sites have been identified and shortlisted for inclusion while also to strike off sites and properties which have been destroyed and disappeared over the years.  

The three ancient sites of Dubdi Monastery, Coronation Throne at Norbugang in Yuksom and the Rapdentse Palace Ruin are under the care and supervision of the Archaeological Survey of India since the early 1980s and now well looked after by them with all safeguards. However, all other heritage sites and places of worship as referred to above are exposed to the vagary of nature endlessly and not protected legally. These many sites constitute a unique civilizational legacy as valuable as any other nationally protected monuments. This heritage is manifest in both tangible and intangible forms. This legacy is steadily eroded as a result of insensitive modernization and urbanization drive.

In such a scenario, we may better re-imagine quick remedy and engage in re-thinking while undertaking policy decisions and other development prerogatives.  The authority may like to consider some of the following suggestions:

1.      To pass and notify State Conservation Act/Rules to vigorously safeguard and protect all identified heritage sites, historical places and cultural properties spread across the State with provision for penalty for defaulters;

2.      To engage/hand over allon-going/prospective projects like development of Budang Gadi, Magarzong project and now the freshly discussed possible site at Dentam and development of any other such historical sites to Archaeological Survey of India for scientifically-curated and timely completion. They have the resources, means and expertise to accomplish site development and for their protection and preservation as provided under The Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains (Amendment & Validation) Act, 2010 which are legally binding and enforceable;

3.      We may exchange ideas and explore means to discourage human intervention into our living heritage through a coordinated efforts among all departments including Tourism, Forest, Ecclesiastical, Culture, Roads & Bridges, Building & Housing and UD&HD. As per newspaper report, the authorities have taken initiative in re-routing and re-alignment of proposed road line to spare the sacred Sirijunga Cave in Martam West Sikkim. As reported by the venerable Lamas of Bey Monastery, a natural ancient earth mound with raised altar in the deep forest nearby has been uprooted during road construction. This was a sacred site of the local community to congregate and offer prayer annually to local deity for peace and prosperity.

4.      Traditional Houses vis a vis Rural Housing scheme- whether we can devise mechanism to dovetail and integrate welfare schemes like Rural Housing into repair and renovation of the existing traditional houses thereby religiously retaining the character and symbolism  of the old structure instead of standalone concrete housing as the project may entails. This way, we canspend the earmarked amount into the locally felt heritage need;

5.      The Government may like to adopt traditional houses in Sikkim (now only small numbers which are left standing) to undertake complete repair and renovation for their long-term preservation and protection on annual basis or need based interval as part of uniform state policy. We have seen that whatever number of traditional houses are in existence today in Sikkim are largely sustained through individual commitment laced with deeply emotional bonding as being ancestral legacy. There is a need for consistent institutional support and patronage.

6.      The Government may like to revive the State Museum project now lying in a limbo by duly hiring Museum experts and professionals with successful track record of having developed similar projects in the past. Also may consider at least one state-level Art Gallery to organize and showcase talents from amongst our own people who are equally talented and gifted.The historical White Hall with its location and architectural richness may be structurally more appropriate and suitable for a world-class gallery, may also be considered. Not to forget that very recently Raja Ravi Varma’s oil painting “Yashoda and Krishna” was sold at record-breaking Rs. 167.20 crores in Mumbai.In all these, the Ministry of Culture, Government of India also will be very happy to assist and support, I am sure.

Conservationists and archaeologists have raised alarm over the extensive use of modern materials replacing traditional combination of mud mortar, timber and bamboo during repairs and renovation of our own ancient monasteries and other traditional vernacular structures damaged during earthquakes and by other agents. The supply and extensive use of industrial materials has led to decline in usage of local materials compromising construction technique and details. This is evident across region and across districts without any exception. Even repair work of the remotely located Tholung Monastery (requiringmore than 5-hrs of uphill trek) is being undertaken by using modern industrial materials. Visitors’ Huts developed by Tourism Department in the complex wear the same looks.This and similar other issues beg for immediate attention and thought through to evolve sustainable model of growth and development while also protecting, preserving and promoting our rich culture and tradition and way of life.

Culture as ageneric term encompasses wide range of both tangible and intangible properties which is difficult to fit in a single definition. It is the complex whole which includes “knowledge, belief, art, moral, law, custom and any other capabilities and habits acquired by man as a member of society”.

In a state like ours with arguably the largest concentration of socio-cultural diversity, Sikkim and the Sikkimese have, for centuries, remained the bedrock of rich heritage that includes our modes of life, value system, traditions and belief together with abundant nature. To save ourselves and ensure that our own identity of being a Sikkimese are not obliterated and pass into oblivion, the people at large should also be sensitive enough and more responsive to support the State Government by following all people-centric and culturally sensitive directives issued from time to time.Lest, modernity with full of sound and fury will only and ultimately drown us, overwhelm us beyond recognition, beyond acknowledgment and beyond any trace of identity.

 (Views are personal. Email: bhawan.rai78@gmail.com)

*With additional inputs from Shri LN Sharma, Sr. Preservation Officer, Sikkim State Archives