The Street Foods of Varanasi

Mrinal Chatterjee

Window Seat

In Varanasi, food is not just sustenance—it is theatre, tradition, and a test of courage for the uninitiated. The city’s street food culture is as layered and lively as its ancient lanes, deliberately made narrow to deter marauding forces entering the city in large formations. In the byzantine lanes of Varanasi every corner seems to sizzle, steam, or sweeten the air.

Take the iconic Kachori Sabzi—a breakfast favourite that arrives hot, spicy, and unapologetically indulgent. Served with tangy potato-chickpea curry, it is less a meal and more a wake-up call. Then comes Chaat in its many avatars—crispy, spicy, sweet, and chaotic, much like the city itself.

For the brave-hearted, there is TamatarChaat—a curious concoction of tomatoes, lots of spices, and butter, cooked into a delightful mess that somehow works brilliantly. Sweet lovers are equally spoiled. Creamy lassi, often topped with a thick malai layer, competes with jalebis fresh out of the kadhai. Hygiene may occasionally be a philosophical concept here, but flavour reigns supreme.

And of course, no visit to Varanasi is complete without the legendary BanarasiPaan, a cultural experience wrapped in a betel leaf, immortalised in songs (remember O Khaike Pan Banarasi-wala..) and stories.

Eating out in Varanasi is not about fine dining—it is about standing by a bustling stall, elbow to elbow with strangers, sharing a plate and a moment. In every bite, there is history, humour, and a hint of holy madness—just like Varanasi itself.

Sarnath

Just a short 10 km drive from Varanasi lies Sarnath, one of the most sacred sites in Buddhism and a place where history breathes with quiet dignity. It was here, in the 6th century BCE, that Gautama Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment at Bodh Gaya. This event, known as the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta, marked the beginning of the Buddha’s teaching journey.

At the heart of Sarnath stands the majestic Dhamek Stupa, a massive cylindrical structure believed to mark the exact spot of that first sermon. Nearby are the ruins of ancient monasteries and temples, offering a glimpse into a once-thriving centre of learning and spiritual practice.

Equally significant is the Ashoka Pillar, erected by Emperor Ashoka the Great in the 3rd century BCE. Its lion capital, now preserved in the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, has been adopted as India’s national emblem.

Photo: Mrinal Chatterjee

Bharatendu Harishchandra

Bharatendu Harishchandra, often hailed as the “Father of Modern Hindi Literature,” was one of Varanasi’s most illustrious sons. His house- a haveli actually- still stands at the Chowk area in a narrow lane close to the ghats and Biswanath Temple. I met Dipeeshji, fifth generation descendant of Bharatendu in this house steeped in history.

I’ll talk about my visit later. First about Bharatendu Harishchandra. Born in 1850 into an affluent family, he inherited not only material comfort but also a deep engagement with literature, music, and the arts. Yet, his life was far from leisurely indulgence; it was marked by an intense commitment to language, literature, reform, and national awakening.

Bharatendu standardised Hindi language and used it as a powerful medium to express social concerns and political consciousness. Through his plays, essays, and poems, he highlighted issues such as poverty, blind orthodoxy, and the exploitation of India under British rule. His famous play, Andher Nagari, remains a sharp satire on administrative chaos and moral decay.

He was also a pioneering editor, publishing journals that promoted Hindi as a modern literary language. At a time when linguistic identity was closely tied to cultural assertion, Bharatendu’s efforts helped shape Hindi into a vehicle of intellectual and nationalist discourse.

Despite his short life—he passed away at just 34—his influence endures. He was not merely a writer; he was a visionary who gave voice to a language and, through it, to a people in transition.

Tomato

6 April was World Tomato Day.

Tomato is a fruit, not vegetable, as many people believe, and each variety contains a different mix of minerals and vitamins.

Tomatoes aren't always red. They can be yellow, pink, purple, black and even white!

It's thought that tomatoes originally came from Peru. Tomatoes were introduced to India in the 16th century by Portuguese traders. It took roughly 200–300 years to gain popularity, moving from a suspected "poison apple" to a staple ingredient by the late 19th or early 20th century.

Cartoon by Suvadeep