Footprints of Guru Padmasambhava in Nepal

VIDHU PRAKASH KAYASTHA

Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, is a significant figure in the Buddhist traditions of Nepal and the broader Himalayan region. His contributions are particularly notable in the context of Vajrayana Buddhism, which is a prominent form of Buddhism practiced in Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, and other Himalayan regions.  His contributions are particularly notable in the context of Vajrayana Buddhism, which is a prominent form of Buddhism practiced in Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, and other Himalayan regions.

Guru Padmasambhava played a crucial role in the propagation of Vajrayana Buddhism, also known as the Diamond Vehicle or Tantric Buddhism. His teachings emphasized the use of esoteric practices, rituals, and meditation techniques to attain enlightenment swiftly.

Guru Padmasambhava is believed to have founded several monasteries and meditation centers in Nepal. These institutions served as hubs for Buddhist learning, meditation, and the preservation of Buddhist texts.  The objective of this article is to provide overview of the holy sites in Nepal where the Guru exercised is spiritual attainments. 

Halesi

Padmasambhava, accompanied by his consort Mandarva, arrived at the caves of Mount Maratika in the Khotang district of Nepal, where he practiced secret tantric rituals. They had visions of Amitabha Buddha and acquired the "Powa Rainbow Body." This is a very rare type of spiritual enlightenment that realizes the immortal Vajra body. According to Tibetan Buddhist tradition, Padmasambhava and his consort Mandarva achieved immortality (Amrita) in the Maratika caves. Pilgrims, especially those who follow the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, visit this place to pay homage to their guru, Rinpoche, and to perform spiritual practices. 

Timal

Guru Padmasambhava, meditated in Tima before starting his Pharping meditation. Timal is dotted with special caves commemorating religious sites and places where the Rinpoche, also known as "Second Buddha”, meditated. Timal is also known for its bodhicitta beads, which are only available here.

Asura Caves in Pharping

The guru, Padmasambhava, arrived at the Asura caves of Pharping in the Kathmandu valley, where he spent 12 years. Pharping is located at southwest of Kathmandu downtown, where Padmasambhava attended a meditation retreat focused on the Tantric Buddha, known in Tibet as Vajrakilaya. He defeated the local troublesome evil spirits to end the drought. The story of the prolonged drought in the Kathmandu valley is also related to Guru Gorakhnath and his Guru Machchhindranath. Despite the layers of legend surrounding Padmasambhava, the earliest documentary evidence of his activities mentions Janresho cave. Several 10th-century manuscripts discovered in the "Library Cave" of Dunhuang, Tibet, are dedicated to the Tantric God Vajrak?laya. The Rinpoche created the Hundred Thousand Verses Tantra in the caves, which laid the foundation for much of the wisdom of Vajrakilaya and the major theories of Tibetan Buddhism. He acquired the knowledge of Mahamudra in the caves.  Pharping, an ancient Newar town, is believed to have been founded before the 5th century. Amidst many holy sculptures, there are footprints and palmprints of the Rinpoche in the sacred stone slabs kept in the caves. Asura Caves in Pharping is a holy pilgrimage in Buddhism and is considered auspicious for meditation. It is believed that one can reach enlightenment here faster than anywhere else.  

Chumik Changchup: the Source of Awakening 

The stone carvings of Guru Padmasambhava's heroic efforts are found in the Rikheshwar forest of Daman, located along the meandering path of the mid-hills, 100 km west of the Kathmandu valley, popularly known as “Byroadko baato”. He passed through this place during his trip to Tibet. At this place the Guru achieved the incredible feat of defeating the demons and making them follow the Dharma. The Guru left here a wealth of power and blessings known as Kyechok Tsulzang. Dzambala, the god of fortune and wealth, is reflected in the power and blessings. Chumik Changchup means the source of awakening.

Swayambhu Mahastupa and Boudha Mahastupa

Swayambhu is considered as a self-made gem. This stupa is believed to have grown from a lotus seed planted by Shakyamuni Buddha. Swayambhu has been the center of Buddhist life in Nepal since ancient times. Devotion of Guru Padmasambhava drew him to Swayambhunath and Boudhanath Stupas. Both stupas are included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites.

Muktinath region or the Chuming Gyatsa

The Tibetan name of the Muktinath region, Chumig Gyatsa, means "hundred waterfalls". It is one of the 24 places where Guru Rinpoche practiced during his journey from India to Tibet in the 8th century. Dancing Goddess performed her penance in this area which is considered sacred. The nuns of Chumig Gyatsa are considered dakinis. They are the descendants of a woman who lived there during Guru Rinpoche's time and received teachings from him.

Before departing from Mustang, the Guru erected a statue. In the gompa till today the nuns worship the idol of the Guru. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche chased the demon westward into the Mustang. The two battled across Mustang's snow-capped mountain peaks, desert canyons, and grasslands. After defeating the demon, Guru Rinpoche scattered the demon's body parts over Mustang. The demon's blood formed a towering crimson rock, and its guts fell to the windswept ground east of the rock.

Nepal has a rich Buddhist history with various Tibetan Buddhist traditions. Many monasteries and stupas in Nepal are associated with the teachings of Padmasambhava. His legacy continues to play an important role in the spiritual and cultural heritage of the region. 

(The author is a Communication Expert. Email: vidhukayastha@gmail.com)