Ah Leung

SIDDARTH PRADHAN

I first heard the name Ah Leung from my dear old friend Anthony, a former school junior who worked in Delhi but now calls Kolkata home. He is a regular Chinatown premise, and it was during a traditional dinner we had at his Chinese friend’s restaurant, China Pearl, that Ah Leung’s came up for the first time.

Accompanied by my friends from Meghalaya—Desmond and Teibun— we had come to the city to attend the 6th Himalayan Orange Tourism Festival and decided to indulge in a Chinese breakfast adventure. We hopped into a taxi and made our way through a maze of narrow, unkempt streets, not far from the famous Chinese Kali Temple, at Tangra. Guided by Google Map, we passed what were once the bustling tanneries and warehouses of Tangra, now mostly abandoned, with only a skeleton community of Chinese families left behind. The majority had migrated overseas, with only a few maintaining their businesses.

The Chinese community first began arriving in Kolkata in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, during the British colonial era. Many came from the Guangdong province, particularly the Hakka and Cantonese groups. Initially settling in Tiretta Bazaar (Old Chinatown), they later moved to Tangra, which became the city's "New Chinatown." The Hakka Chinese, skilled in leather tanning, played a key role in the area's industrial growth, providing leather goods to both local and international markets. Alongside their business acumen, they also introduced Kolkata to Chinese culinary traditions, blending them with local spices to create the distinctive "Indian Chinese" cuisine we know today.

(Ah Leung restaurant)

As the city’s tanneries faced environmental restrictions and closure in the late 1990s and early 2000s, many Chinese families transitioned into other ventures. Today, Tangra is known not just for its cuisine, but also for small businesses like beauty parlours, packaging and carpentry. The once-thriving Chinese population, which numbered around 20,000, has dwindled to fewer than 2,000 now.

Amidst this evolving Chinatown stands Ah Leung, a humble eatery tucked away in one of Tangra’s quiet bylanes, serving some of Kolkata’s most beloved Chinese breakfast dishes. The restaurant, now famed for its authenticity, has been serving the community for over 35 years. As we walked in, we were greeted by the daughter of the family, adding a unique touch to their family-run venture , who multitasked with orders and billing. She shared that her husband is a Sikkimese.

(The wonton noodles)

Our server, hailing from Kalimpong, was old, friendly and attentive. We told him we wanted to sample the best breakfast meal the restaurant had to offer.

Our first dish was the restaurant's signature clear soup—a steaming broth brimming with flavours. Soon after, we were served their breakfast delicacy: wonton noodles, a comforting dish of homemade noodles served with steamed pork wontons, garnished with fresh spring onions. The dish is heightened by the use of lard, which amplifies the flavour profile to perfection. A drizzle of their house-made red chili sauce paired with a touch of soy sauce perfectly ties the flavours together.

The pork fry on the side complemented the noodles beautifully, offering a crisp contrast to the softness of the wontons. Each bite was a savoury delight, and the generous servings which we balanced on chopsticks,  were more than enough to satiate our hunger. The whole meal, a satisfying feast of comfort food, cost us just 650 rupees for three people—a steal given the quality and authenticity on offer.

At that price, it was hard not to feel like more than just a patron; you were almost compelled to become a brand ambassador for their culinary craft, sharing the unique flavours of Ah Leung with the world.

(Siddarth Pradhan is a Travel & Tourism Consultant. Email: namanste.hhe@gmail.com)